Category: walking

It was a dark and stormy night…

Does your dog struggle with walks in the dark?

Welcome back to Eastside Tails, now bi-monthly! I’ve been meaning to talk about this subject for some time. Many dog parents I know have problems with walking their dog in the dark. It’s an obvious issue with the shorter autumn and winter days, and actually more common than you would think. I’m writing this during another storm, so it’s reminded me about the effects of wind and rain too. Wind is not a friend of dog walking or training, especially gusty winds, it can add to reactivity and over-arousal. So bear this in mind when you are thinking about walks, especially walks in the dark.

Dogs and night vision

Dogs generally can see better in the dark than humans. This doesn’t mean your individual dog can, but it’s more likely than not. Assuming your dog does not have an obvious retinal problem, how well they really do see even in daylight is usually a mystery. Because like us, there is huge individual variation. I always wonder how a dog being long or short-sighted might affect their behaviour. The short answer is of course it does. These are issues rarely diagnosed, or mentioned in training.

In terms of night vision, it could be your dog is below average, so don’t just assume they can see in the dark better than you. And obviously, puppies and senior dogs will not!

The day – night cycle

But if your dog does have ‘average’ night vision, remember they are not nocturnal animals. We are not talking super-power or owl-like capabilities. In the wild they would normally choose to rest and sleep in the dark, just like us. Not play, hunt or scavenge. Like us, they have a ‘circadian’ rhythm. This is a biological clock that shapes their behaviour and routines over a day. It is biologically-rooted, because the brain processes signals from the eyes which drives a cycle. Other things being equal, daylight is time to get things done. Darkness isn’t!

Witness how your young puppy magically settles down for some actual extended sleep (duration highly variable!) at night. Different animal from the excitable bursts of mayhem during the day, right? And the very common ‘witching hour’ that usually precedes bedtime (commonly 6-8pm) where you puppy is bat-crazy? That’s the biological clock in action: expending remaining pent-up energy to allow the body to sleep.

The point here is that the very idea of walks in the dark is not natural for our dogs. So why should we expect them to behave exactly the same way as if it’s daylight?

Is it obvious your dog is anxious?

For some of us, walks in the dark is an obvious problem. But for others it may not be if the effects are more subtle, or the very issue of darkness never occurred to us. Is your dog a little more ‘tight’, wound-up, fizzy, ‘scatty’, relieved to be home? I could go on. Have you made a connection? It could be many things but it’s likely it’s the darkness, so we need to be more sympathetic to their fears.

Why would darkness make such a difference?

Like us, dogs are always processing things they see. Like us, if it’s harder to see those things to process, dogs can become more anxious. Their brain heightens the other senses, so other stimuli become more amplified.

They are more aware of the ground beneath their feet, so if it’s cold and wet (more likely in winter, of course), this is not helping a pleasant association with our walk. They are more aware of smells, which might include the worrying ones (“uh-oh, that dog I don’t like is around”). And they are certainly more aware of sounds. Cars are noisier in the rain of course but any sound will seem ‘louder’. Especially as there might be less general activity compared to summer – less background hum of people hanging out or children playing. And visual stimuli can be exaggerated, like light bright car or streetlights.

If your dog is already reactive with things in daylight, it’s no surprise this reactivity will increase in the dark. And for some dogs who are otherwise fine during the day, they can become reactive during walks in the dark.

So how can we help our dog?

Safety first – be seen. There is a lot of kit out there, from glow-collars and Velcro lights to reflective harnesses and leads and anything hi-vis. Make sure you at least have something hi-vis you can wear too.

Here are six tips:

1. Do we have to go for walks in the dark? Most of us walk our dogs in the dark because we have to, or there is no walk. Before and after work during the winter months is the most common reason. But what about at weekends or on your day off? Routines are usually a good thing, but there is no rule that says we always have to walk our dog at a certain time. As long as it’s before a meal or safely a few hours after, why not take your dog for one longer walk in the middle of the day? Instead of two shorter ones at either end of the day (in the dark!). For most of us, this is not normally an option. But remember, if it’s a dark and stormy night, or gusty wind, you can give it a pass this time.
2. Consider a shorter walk
   You probably do this anyway, but again, there is no rule to your walk that says you have to do the same daytime walk. Your dog can still have some exercise and toilet. But if they are obviously anxious, there is nothing to be gained by exposing them to long walks in the dark. If you are saving ten or twenty minutes on the walk, keep a little of this back for when you get home. It’s still their dog-time! Time for a little Stay training, a fun Find It game, or whatever they might enjoy to expend a little more energy.
3. Slow down a little
   Let’s keep things as calm as we can – rushing fuels stress and adrenaline.
4. Avoid what scares them the most
   Not so easy if you are in a rural or semi-rural area, but when you do have choices, make the right ones! So try to avoid the very darkest areas or hotspots you know your dog might be jumpy with. Help yourselves to see with things like a head-torch, not only for your safety, but it will help your dog too. Are dazzling car lights a particular issue? (Frankly they are with me, let alone my dog.) Then try not to walk against the flow of traffic in urban areas. These are small things that can make a big difference.
5. Engage with your dog
   Those who know me know I’m a big fan of talking to your dog on walks, but in the dark this is especially important. We want to remind them we are with them and the walk is teamwork. We want to be careful to avoid rewarding or praising anxiety, so keep it calm and matter-of-fact. But ask them where they want to go (even if you are making the decision), tell them what an interesting smell that so obviously is. Let them relish in the sniffing more than usual if it’s really engaging them. (Remember those heightened senses? Here we can use this to our advantage). Break things up with a little heel-walking or focus training with treats.
6. Training
   This is the best thing you can do to actually resolve the problem. We can start building a nicer association with the dark, using desensitisation. You can start on some basics yourself, it’s easy! At random times of the day (but when it’s dark), calmly put their lead on and go with them outside for a minute. As they are taking in their surroundings – they will always be looking at something – pop a high value treat in their mouth. Repeat this several times. You’re not really going anywhere. Then try and ask them to focus on you for a second, rewarding them with a treat if they can. Then go back inside, take the lead off, and praise them. Gradually we can do this for a longer duration during the training every day, but I would recommend always starting walks in the dark this way from that moment.

Contact me for a more bespoke technique for your dog. Walks in the dark can absolutely become less fearful for them, and you!

How to stop another dog pestering you

Over-friendly or threatening. What to do if an unwelcome visitor suddenly joins you on your walk.

The scenario I am about to describe is a common one often discussed in social media, books and blogs. Let’s bring together some of the more effective coping strategies for a dog pestering you. You cannot replicate a genuinely unpleasant encounter in training. Nor should you try to because you are inviting stress and potential danger. And every scenario has subtle variations and shades. So the only way you are going to find out which, if any, work, is when you try them in real life!

The scenario is this. You are walking your dog in an open area and you are both startled at the sudden appearance of another dog off lead, owner far away, who wants to bother your dog. We will call the other the dog the stranger. Now, the stranger might be displaying aggressive body language or vocalisations that could escalate quickly into Fight mode. Or the stranger simply could be over-friendly, trying to engage in play that is not balanced – let’s call it bullying. Either way, this is dog pestering!

The common thread here is that the stranger is apparently not going anywhere, and your dog is not happy about this. Your dog is either going into defensive fear-aggression mode. Or displaying signs of stress and submission: “I want you to go away now please”. Or even wanting to escape entirely and bolt. Fight, Faint, or Flight.

In future posts I will be talking about dog body language. The signs and signals our dogs are so adept at displaying (and that we are often so poor at reading). And what uneven play looks like. But here I simply want to help with the question:-

“What do we do to make the other dog away?”

With the sparkier encounters, your own adrenaline will suddenly flood you as well. You are unlikely to have clear-thinking nor time on your side to diligently go through your checklist! So it’s worth rehearsing in your mind what you might try in these scenarios in future. That way, at least one might spring to mind in the heat of the moment. Or you may be able to try a series of them: one may not be enough. So, what do we do?

1. Be aware of your surroundings

The first thing is environment management. You will never avoid a conflict every time, but you can certainly reduce their frequency if you … look up! Walking the dog is supposed to be fun and relaxing, and we want to keep it that way. But just like being out and about with the kids, an enjoyable walk is not incompatible with simply being aware of your surroundings.

Your dog walk should be about them – it is for your dog’s benefit and you are responsible for their welfare. So you can help them be safe and make the right choices and respond to you by keeping potential trouble at a far enough distance. If you have doubts about the appearance of the stranger in the distance, proceed with caution. Or simply head off in another direction.

2. Put or keep your dog on a lead

This can be controversial, and is actually not a clear-cut mantra. If the situation warrants it and your dog wants and simply has to defend itself – rather than bolt – which it cannot do properly on a lead, there is an argument for letting them go. And when you are the stranger’s target.

But most times we are commonly talking about either playful bullying or “arms-length” sparring. And for this I would say keep your dog on a lead or if possible, put them on a lead. How you do the latter deserves a post in itself, as your dog is unlikely to be staying still or listening to you. But if you can, do it. You will be more effective as a single unit, linked with a lead. If you can’t or still have some distance to work with, use your powers of recall to get yourself and your dog moving away in the other direction (see below).

Try to keep yourself as calm but authoritative as you can.

Don’t give your dog a further reason to panic or be stressed. They read you like a book! So if they weren’t unduly worried to begin with, they soon will be.

3. Call out to the other owner

It could be you are dealing with a stray, of course. But if you can see the stranger’s owner, engage with them immediately. “Can you call your dog back please!”. We all know the most common reply: “Oh he’s just saying hello or wants to play!”. To which your answer is always: “Well my dog doesn’t!”. Or “There is a reason my dog is on a lead.”

One riposte I heard was “He just wants to sniff his bum! We are socialising him!”. So they are implying they are being responsible, and you aren’t, because you are stopping this admirable intention. Not okay! Your dog is not their training stooge. And above all:

Socialisation is about helping a dog learn what is acceptable behaviour in any environment, not being out of control in that environment.

Anyway, take whatever ridiculous excuse is thrown back at you in your stride! And insist politely, but repeatedly if necessary, that they call their dog back. In my experience, it is more likely the stranger will have poor or zero recall. The owner’s embarrassment at this will further escalate their attitude towards you. Don’t take it personally – keep laser-focused on you and your dog’s welfare. That is our sole purpose here. It’s all the matters.

4. Try to remove yourselves from the situation

Always your go-to priority. Do what you can to keep your dog moving with you in the other direction, quickly but calmly. But avoid excessive pulling and dragging. This will only add to your dog’s tension and naturally increase their tendency to push forward. You are both vulnerable with your backs turned. You will both be mindful anyway of what you are trying to leave behind. It’s only natural. But if it is possible,

increase the distance so you are no longer perceived by the stranger to be a threat or a play-thing worth bothering.

If your dog is a wriggler and there is potential to escape their harness or collar, you are going to have to stand your ground, however.

5. Try to put yourself between the stranger and your dog

You will already be thinking to yourself easier said than done. But you have to try. This will be easier if the stranger is six feet rather than two feet away, and is bully-playful rather than aggressive. But try putting your dog quickly in a Sit-Stay. Ideally behind if not beside you will help, if it is safe to do so. Immediately create a barrier between your dog and the stranger. They may circle which will break your dog’s Sit-Stay but you must pivot yourself to maintain this barrier.

6. Command the other dog

No matter how poorly trained, this will actually work more often than it doesn’t. Be confident, stand tall, raise your arm theatrically as you loudly command: “SIT!” or “STOP!”. Or Down. Or GO.AWAY. If Sit doesn’t work, then try the others. At the very least, the stranger should be genuinely surprised and this will buy you more time (is that the owner finally getting closer to us, I see?).

This may create a long enough pause for the other owner to get their dog on the lead. Or for you to keep repeating the command until they do. (Notice I am deliberately using the word “Command” here, as opposed to a Cue or an Ask. You are not being aggressive or abusive. But in this instance there should be no doubt that you are ordering the stranger to do as asked.) Keep your hand up in a Stop signal.

7. Try throwing treats behind the stranger

Scatter the kibble as they say – it’s raining treats! Just behind them so they have to turn their back. Then throw further away. This gives you more time to purposefully set off in the other direction. And hopefully for the owner to arrive on the scene. Treat motivation will be lower in an aroused dog, but again the element of surprise may work. This may be enough to stop the dog pestering you. But now the stranger is following us for the treats, I hear you say. If that happens, then we have something to work with! They are putty in your hands. You can now all march off, treat-scattering away to your side, to the embarrassed owner and meet in the middle.

Not recommended….

• Picking your dog up
• Trying to grab hold of the other dog

There are too many variations of dog pestering to cover all the bases in this one post, and whilst these two ideas may work in specific instances (tiny dogs, and an over-friendly stranger + consenting owner spring to mind), I would not recommend these are your Go-To strategies because they could get you into trouble.

A Perfect World

When you see another dog on a lead, there is a reason.

And frankly it shouldn’t matter to you why! The considerate dog walking code is to either put your dog on a lead. Or at least ask the other owner if they want you to. Or you can ensure your off-lead dog is well trained enough to not bother them. Let’s co-operate to lessen dog pestering.

One: It’s polite and considerate! We are helping another person and their dog. This is good!

Two: Your dog should never be off lead in the first place if it is not under control at all times. That, my friends, is now enshrined in Law.

I would welcome any comments on your own experiences and recommendations on this topic. Now, stop worrying and enjoy your walk!

Recall treats – a low cost DIY recipe

Ever wondered what a fifty-metre recall looks like? Try making these low cost, healthy training super-treats, your dog will love you even more!

This month we’re looking at higher grade training treats for when we need some oomph! And a recipe for something you can try yourself. Now, I know how frustrating reading a blog with a recipe can be – you have scroll to the  very bottom to find what you really want to know: what is it and how do I make it? So I’ll give that part to you now, the Why comes after. Let’s get a disclaimer out of the way first. This does not replace a meal or a complete, balanced diet. I am not responsible for how you make or store it, and nor do I advocate you trying it without knowing your dog’s allergies. I am simply sharing with you something that works really well for me, and we’ll discuss super- treats in general.

This is a training treat that can be used for when you need a higher-value food to aid you for the really important training techniques such as RECALL. They are basically dog-friendly mini-hamburgers (5ml teaspoon size in fact) that you can easily make yourself, and unlike shop-bought, you know what goes in them – and it’s good stuff!

Teaspoon Burgers Recipe

Ingredients

• 1lb / 450g minced beef (ideally not extra lean, but 10% fat)
• 1 small/medium carrot, finely diced
• 1.5 tablespoons chickpea flour (or other suitable grain-free flour, or normal plain flour if you know your dog is okay with gluten)
• 1 egg

Time to make

About an hour: 5 mins chopping/mixing, 35 mins measuring out, 20+ mins baking. Allow a little more time afterwards for general faffing with freezing.

Method

1. Prepare a large or two medium baking trays with baking paper on them.
2. Mix up well all the ingredients in a bowl, resulting in a slightly sticky solid mass! (easier to handle when the mince is cold).
3. Now for measuring them out. This takes a little over half an hour and is the boring bit. Stick a podcast on, or sing to your dog! 20 minutes in-
4. Preheat the oven to 180C or 170C fan.
5. Fill a 1 teaspoon measuring spoon (5ml) or just use a small teaspoon – then thumb out flat side down onto the baking tray. You should have a small dome – thumb the middle down a little. Repeat until you have filled your tray(s). If there is anything left over you can save the mixture in the fridge for 24hrs.
6. Bake for 20+ minutes until definitely well done and cooked through (I usually end up doing 25 minutes because I’m paranoid).

Defrost thoroughly smaller batches as and when needed (overnight in a container in the fridge): use within 48hrs once kept in the fridge. If you have a large dog you can make fewer, larger burgers, by all means experiment with the portion sizing.

So why are these good? Other things are too

We usually train and walk our dogs with very small treats which are normally enough to do the trick with rewarding and which can be used with high frequency especially for short bursts of training. But we also need what I call a “Ferrari Food”: a high (taste) value, more substantial treat which we would use much less often, but for the really important never-fail situations, such as recalling our dog back to us. We need something so irresistible that our dog will always prefer it to whatever else is tempting them away.

So what else can we use?

Home-made or prepared things like cooked chicken are wonderful. Chicken is good. We like chicken. But it’s not cheap. Sausages are okay and very tempting for a dog, but their ingredients are a minefield so care is needed: they will often contain gluten at the least, or worse, certain spices such as nutmeg which are dog-toxic. So do check the ingredients forensically or ask your butcher for a complete breakdown. If your dog easily puts on weight, best avoided on a regular basis. Otherwise, good to go. Cubed cheese (not processed) is okay but only for occasional use: dogs find it difficult to digest dairy so I will only use this if I am caught short on a certain day. So please use sparingly. Frankfurters are the probably the best workhorse treat in terms of value. Beware some brands are not wheat/gluten-free if this is an issue for you, and they are of course processed meat, so I would caution against their long-term, frequent use. But dogs love them and their undeniable £ value and ease of handling makes occasional use, or short-term intense use for training periods fine, other things being equal. And who doesn’t like hot dogs anyway? Just siphon off a few for your faithful companion.

And what about fruit and veg?

Dog-safe varieties are always a good idea for a treat anyway, but for Recall I am afraid chicken will beat a carrot every time, and remember we are talking about something that’s irresistible.

Shop-bought treats

Like the home-made items mentioned above, if you have found something that works for you (and your dog!), then that’s good, I am not here to ask you to change. What I do want to do is share with you the problem I was having, as I know I am not alone.

Household budgets are being squeezed these days, I hear you. I  was looking at ways to reasonably economize on the things where at least we have a little control, like our food. I used to buy the most expensive “recall” treats I could afford, because generally speaking you get what you pay for and the more expensive brands tend to be healthier (but always check!). I am a great believer in natural foods and minimum processing, and if I want to eat well, even on a budget, I certainly want the dog to eat well (in fact, he comes first!).

The problem?

Over £3 now for a 65g bag of something that is still processed to a degree, still using filler ingredients, and was lasting me, ooh, maybe 5 days? (3 days if we encountered wild animals or a discarded pizza on a walk, I was a posh vending machine). Trading down to cheaper brands for me wasn’t an option, so I researched and experimented and arrived at these burgers. I did not come across this exact recipe, though no doubt someone else somewhere has come up with the same thing. The bottom line?

Low cost

Including leccy for the oven, these come in at approx. £6 (Feb’23 prices) for 96 treats which last me for 3 weeks for a medium-sized dog. And that’s using good quality beef mince and a free-range egg, so you could do it a little cheaper than that. This will vary for you of course, depending on their use and the size of your dog, but a like-for-like comparison in my case with good quality shop-bought is it works out at half the price. I would guess they are no cheaper or not much cheaper than the lower cost brands, but those are so much less healthy, which brings us onto:

Healthier

Okay, we are not in kale territory here, but remember what we are up against. Beef mince of course has a good balance of protein, iron and fat your dog needs, in these smaller quantities, (and remember you are baking not frying, so some of the fat drains off). Carrots of course are a Good Thing: a rich source of fibre and vitamin A. The flour and egg are used for binding agents and in this small quantity are fine too, particularly if you use something like chickpea flour and good quality eggs. No meat processing or artificial additives are involved, and the ingredients are cooked from fresh. All good!

They work!

Oh man, dogs love them. An hour and a bit of my time every third Sunday is time happily spent, knowing the pleasure and results they help to bring. No chips please, keep it simple!