Categories
walking

Eastside Tails

It was a dark and stormy night…

Does your dog struggle with walks in the dark?
man walking with dog in dark park walks in dark blog

Welcome back to Eastside Tails, now bi-monthly! I’ve been meaning to talk about this subject for some time. Many dog parents I know have problems with walking their dog in the dark. It’s an obvious issue with the shorter autumn and winter days, and actually more common than you would think. I’m writing this during another storm, so it’s reminded me about the effects of wind and rain too. Wind is not a friend of dog walking or training, especially gusty winds, it can add to reactivity and over-arousal. So bear this in mind when you are thinking about walks, especially walks in the dark.

Dogs and night vision

Dogs generally can see better in the dark than humans. This doesn’t mean your individual dog can, but it’s more likely than not. Assuming your dog does not have an obvious retinal problem, how well they really do see even in daylight is usually a mystery. Because like us, there is huge individual variation. I always wonder how a dog being long or short-sighted might affect their behaviour. The short answer is of course it does. These are issues rarely diagnosed, or mentioned in training.

In terms of night vision, it could be your dog is below average, so don’t just assume they can see in the dark better than you. And obviously, puppies and senior dogs will not!

The day – night cycle

But if your dog does have ‘average’ night vision, remember they are not nocturnal animals. We are not talking super-power or owl-like capabilities. In the wild they would normally choose to rest and sleep in the dark, just like us. Not play, hunt or scavenge. Like us, they have a ‘circadian’ rhythm. This is a biological clock that shapes their behaviour and routines over a day. It is biologically-rooted, because the brain processes signals from the eyes which drives a cycle. Other things being equal, daylight is time to get things done. Darkness isn’t!

Witness how your young puppy magically settles down for some actual extended sleep (duration highly variable!) at night. Different animal from the excitable bursts of mayhem during the day, right? And the very common ‘witching hour’ that usually precedes bedtime (commonly 6-8pm) where you puppy is bat-crazy? That’s the biological clock in action: expending remaining pent-up energy to allow the body to sleep.

The point here is that the very idea of walks in the dark is not natural for our dogs. So why should we expect them to behave exactly the same way as if it’s daylight?

Is it obvious your dog is anxious?

For some of us, walks in the dark is an obvious problem. But for others it may not be if the effects are more subtle, or the very issue of darkness never occurred to us. Is your dog a little more ‘tight’, wound-up, fizzy, ‘scatty’, relieved to be home? I could go on. Have you made a connection? It could be many things but it’s likely it’s the darkness, so we need to be more sympathetic to their fears.

Why would darkness make such a difference?

Like us, dogs are always processing things they see. Like us, if it’s harder to see those things to process, dogs can become more anxious. Their brain heightens the other senses, so other stimuli become more amplified.

They are more aware of the ground beneath their feet, so if it’s cold and wet (more likely in winter, of course), this is not helping a pleasant association with our walk. They are more aware of smells, which might include the worrying ones (“uh-oh, that dog I don’t like is around”). And they are certainly more aware of sounds. Cars are noisier in the rain of course but any sound will seem ‘louder’. Especially as there might be less general activity compared to summer – less background hum of people hanging out or children playing. And visual stimuli can be exaggerated, like light bright car or streetlights.

If your dog is already reactive with things in daylight, it’s no surprise this reactivity will increase in the dark. And for some dogs who are otherwise fine during the day, they can become reactive during walks in the dark.

So how can we help our dog?

Safety first – be seen. There is a lot of kit out there, from glow-collars and Velcro lights to reflective harnesses and leads and anything hi-vis. Make sure you at least have something hi-vis you can wear too.

Here are six tips:

  1. Do we have to go for walks in the dark? Most of us walk our dogs in the dark because we have to, or there is no walk. Before and after work during the winter months is the most common reason. But what about at weekends or on your day off? Routines are usually a good thing, but there is no rule that says we always have to walk our dog at a certain time. As long as it’s before a meal or safely a few hours after, why not take your dog for one longer walk in the middle of the day? Instead of two shorter ones at either end of the day (in the dark!). For most of us, this is not normally an option. But remember, if it’s a dark and stormy night, or gusty wind, you can give it a pass this time.
  2. Consider a shorter walk
    You probably do this anyway, but again, there is no rule to your walk that says you have to do the same daytime walk. Your dog can still have some exercise and toilet. But if they are obviously anxious, there is nothing to be gained by exposing them to long walks in the dark. If you are saving ten or twenty minutes on the walk, keep a little of this back for when you get home. It’s still their dog-time! Time for a little Stay training, a fun Find It game, or whatever they might enjoy to expend a little more energy.
  3. Slow down a little
    Let’s keep things as calm as we can – rushing fuels stress and adrenaline.
  4. Avoid what scares them the most
    Not so easy if you are in a rural or semi-rural area, but when you do have choices, make the right ones! So try to avoid the very darkest areas or hotspots you know your dog might be jumpy with. Help yourselves to see with things like a head-torch, not only for your safety, but it will help your dog too. Are dazzling car lights a particular issue? (Frankly they are with me, let alone my dog.) Then try not to walk against the flow of traffic in urban areas. These are small things that can make a big difference.
  5. Engage with your dog
    Those who know me know I’m a big fan of talking to your dog on walks, but in the dark this is especially important. We want to remind them we are with them and the walk is teamwork. We want to be careful to avoid rewarding or praising anxiety, so keep it calm and matter-of-fact. But ask them where they want to go (even if you are making the decision), tell them what an interesting smell that so obviously is. Let them relish in the sniffing more than usual if it’s really engaging them. (Remember those heightened senses? Here we can use this to our advantage). Break things up with a little heel-walking or focus training with treats.
  6. Training
    This is the best thing you can do to actually resolve the problem. We can start building a nicer association with the dark, using desensitisation. You can start on some basics yourself, it’s easy! At random times of the day (but when it’s dark), calmly put their lead on and go with them outside for a minute. As they are taking in their surroundings – they will always be looking at something – pop a high value treat in their mouth. Repeat this several times. You’re not really going anywhere. Then try and ask them to focus on you for a second, rewarding them with a treat if they can. Then go back inside, take the lead off, and praise them. Gradually we can do this for a longer duration during the training every day, but I would recommend always starting walks in the dark this way from that moment.

Contact me for a more bespoke technique for your dog. Walks in the dark can absolutely become less fearful for them, and you!

Categories
ownership

Eastside Tails

How good is your kibble?

And why it matters
kibble dry dog food with scoop and bowl kibble and nutrition blog

Many dog parents advocate raw or fresh food. But it’s still a reality that for the majority, their dog’s main meals will be either entirely or partly dried foods. Kibble! That includes me. So this isn’t a comparison. I simply want to address the majority and take it as a given that you have already decided dried, processed foods offer you the best mix of convenience, cost and nutritional health for your dog.

Given that, I make it my mission to encourage everyone to feed the best they can afford. Because there really is good kibble and bad kibble. I won’t name and shame but want to point you in the right direction for what to look out for. So, how good is your kibble? Is it really the best you can afford, or as good as you think it is?

A few home truths

When I ask people ‘how good is your kibble’ a popular answer is a half-shrug but coupled with a mention that the vet recommended it or stocks it. The simple truth however is that vet practices these days are increasingly being centralised into larger companies, and some of those companies are incentivised to push certain brands of dog food. Three multinationals own the majority of popular UK dog food brands: Mars, Nestlé and Colgate. Each cover both lower and higher-end foods. I am not judging for you whether this is a good or bad thing, simply pointing it out. And to question that just because the vet stocks it, is it right for your dog?

My own story

When my dog was a puppy we continued to feed him the same kibble as the breeder to avoid upheaval. A lot of people do just that. And because in those days I looked at dog food less forensically than I do now. And because, you guessed it, the local vet pushed it too. But as he approached the time for a transition to adult food, I began to take a closer look at what the food actually was. It wasn’t the worst brand by a long way, but neither was it nutritionally the best we could afford. And I have been on a guilt trip ever since! So we changed up (twice so far in fact) to healthier brands.

What to look for

I confess to a geeky streak and I like to look at things in a lot of detail – any good dog trainer should be this way! When I started looking at how good is your kibble, there were so many questions. Such as where is it made (how far does it have to travel and be stored)? Is it extruded or cold-pressed? At what temperature is it baked? Even if the necessary additives are natural, what exactly are they? But don’t worry, I’ve done the heavy lifting for you.

Hypoallergenic and gluten-free

The big elephant in the room here is if your dog has a very delicate digestive system or sensitive skin and you need to feed your dog hypoallergenic food. This term literally means the ingredients are highly unlikely to cause allergic reactions. You have a much more restricted choice, and often meat, necessarily, will be entirely absent.   

Gluten and grain-free can be a minefield with labels, but this is less restrictive, it simply means the absence of wheat and certain other grains. Even if your dog is allergy-free from these sources, many people go with such a recipe on health grounds.

If you’ve found a brand, particularly hypoallergenic, that suits your dog, then I would be careful about rocking the boat and changing. But if your dog is not on a less restricted diet, it wouldn’t hurt to challenge yourself – how good is your kibble?

Labelling

Legally kibble manufacturers must list ingredients in order of composition. So what’s the first ingredient on your kibble? If your dog eats meat, is it meat, or a carbohydrate? This will give you the first clue. The second clue is whether it’s made from fresh meat, or dried, or that grey area described as ‘meal’? Or it can be a combination. Thirdly, is it free of artificial additives of any kind? Colourings, preservatives, anti-oxidants…. anything at all? Finally we want to consider the overall nutritional analysis: protein, carbohydrate, fat, fibre, minerals (‘ash’), water etc.

Research Tools

A few years ago in my kibble research travels I found comparing like-with-like difficult, mainly because of the presence of water. For example, how can a tin of wet food be 80% meat but only 20% protein? Answer: 70% of the meat is water. It’s also because what goes in by weight doesn’t reflect the composition of what comes out (what your dog is actually eating), due to the cooking process. There are useful, dedicated websites like https://www.allaboutdogfood.co.uk/ which use an algorithm to crunch a nutritional value of a brand. Great for geeks like me, but things like this shouldn’t be your only source. (I do find it heavily biased to very high protein and meat brands, so hypoallergenic brands unfairly lose out.)

Gut feeling

If you don’t have the time, it’s easy just to compare a few brands on-line by their ingredients and nutritional analysis. Then go with your gut feeling. Here’s a comparison of two non-hypoallergenic kibble brands from what it says on the bag. Brand A costs about £1 a day for a medium dog, Brand B about £1.70 a day.

Brand A nutritional analysis

Protein 21.1%, Fat 14.8%, Fibre 1.6%, Ash 4.7%, Moisture 8.0%, Sodium 0.27%, Calcium 0.70%, Phosphorus 0.63%, Magnesium 0.09%, Omega6 3.40%

Brand B nutritional analysis

Protein 24.0%, Fat 17.0%, Fibre 2.5%, Ash 7.0%, Moisture 8.0%, Calcium 0.95%, Phosphorus 0.75%, Omega3 1.75%, Omega6 1.50%.

Nothing here really jumps out. Protein for both is within the 20-30% which is within a normal recommendation. Brand B shades it for me on the basis of a little more protein, fibre and at least some Omega 3. But there’s not a huge amount to go on. What about the ingredients?

Brand A ingredients

Maize, Wheat, Chicken and Turkey Meal, Animal Fat, Digest, Maize Gluten Meal, Vegetable Oil, Minerals, Dried Beet Pulp, Flaxseed

Brand B ingredients

Fresh Salmon 40%, Potatoes, Peas, Pea Protein, Linseed, Fish Oil, Vegetable Gravy, Minerals, Mannan-Oligosaccharides, Fructo-Oligosaccharides, Beetroot 0.04%, Apple 0.04%, Mango 0.04%, Avocado 0.04%, Coconut 0.04%, Spinach 0.04%, Blackcurrant 0.04%, Marigold Blossoms, Nettle, Blackberry Leaves, Fennel, Caraway, Chamomile, Balm

Aside from the fact one is a little more transparent about numbers, what your gut feeling? For me, it’s Brand B, and instinct alone would tell me Brand A would be carbohydrate (=sugar) heavy. Finally:

Brand A nutritional additives

E103 [Iron] (84.7mg/kg), E202 [Iodine] (2.4mg/kg), E405 [Copper] (8.4mg/kg), E502 [Manganese] (8.8mg/kg), E603 [Zinc] (155mg/kg), E801 [Selenium] (0.1mg/kg)

Brand B nutritional additives

Vitamin a 20,000 IU, Vitamin D3 2,000 IU, Vitamin E 350 mg. Iron 75 mg; Iodine 3.5 mg; Copper 10 mg; Manganese 7.5 mg; Zinc 150 mg; Selenium 0.15 mg

I tend to glaze over with this one, but what’s your gut feeling with those E numbers?

Affordability

Taking account of the huge range of dog sizes and consumption, for a medium-sized dog, a supermarket kibble might cost 20p a day. The brand I now use costs about £1.80 a day. Cost is a huge consideration for many of us. I would love to drink barista coffee every day but at £3 or £4 a cup I don’t! I would rather spend my £1.80 knowing my dog has a healthy, complete diet. I still spend (a little!) more than that on my own lunch, let alone per day.

The nutritional difference of 70p a day in the two brands I compared is quite significant. And you can work this out just by reading between the lines for an extra minute. Like anything in life, there is always something better and more expensive. But IF there is one thing I have learned from this, just go for the best you can afford!

Why it matters

When we are talking about health and nutrition it’s obvious why it matters: we want our dogs to live as long and healthy lives as possible. But diet also has behaviour implications. Protein overload is a real thing, though often overstated and misunderstood. Too many carbohydrates (sugars) are more often the culprit for hyperactivity. When training a dog, I always ask about diet. A balanced, healthy diet goes hand-in-paw with training!

P.S. If you are interested in knowing more about your own kibble brand, I may have come across it in my research – message me!

P.P.S. I hope you continue to enjoy reading the Eastside Tails blog as much I enjoy writing it. But I need the time to dedicate to it and due to training commitments these days that time is in shorter supply. So, I will be changing to bi-monthly posts for the foreseeable future. 

Categories
ownership

Eastside Tails

Dog Injuries

Tending to your dog without harming trust
dachshund dog with bandage on right leg looking up dog injuries blog

It’s been a busy month here at Dog Citizen HQ, unfortunately not including a summer holiday yet! And in the midst of things my dog sustained an awkward injury that requires daily attention. It reminded me how important medical intervention is from a behaviour perspective. By “dog injuries” I mean anything that requires owner attention to apply medication or bandaging.

It’s a trip to the vet

If dog injuries do not appear obviously severe, but you are still questioning “Should we see a vet?”, the answer is always yes. Better safe than sorry. So I’m assuming you’ve done this and you have your medication or have been to the chemist to top up your first aid kit. Incidentally, it’s always a good idea to have a first aid kit for your dog. Dogs often require gentler disinfectants and sticky plasters for human skin do not mix well with dog fur! Message me and I can give you a list! Or go one better, attend a canine first aid course. They are so practical – saving or preserving life is a skill anyone can learn.

So a trip to the vet or a first aid course will help you patch up your dog. But they may not teach you how you’re nursing a dog can actually upset them and damage your relationship. The good news is it’s simple to follow a few steps to limit any trust damage in the longer run. As well as make it easier and to help things run more smoothly.

Be wary of a wounded or sick animal

Dogs with an underlying illness or a migraine that hasn’t yet been diagnosed can sometimes behave out of character. Even lash out at you. When we are dealing with what at first appears to be a behaviour issue, always ask yourself, can we rule out a medical reason? It’s a trip to the vet!

Dog injuries that have just happened have to be treated sympathetically. Of course we think our dog trusts us and knows we are trying to help. But try not to humanise this. They are animals. If they are in pain, and anything you do to help them that might increase that pain, could be disastrous for your relationship. Even pulling out a thorn in a paw. Do this carefully. Trust me, “He knows this is good for him” or “She realises I am making it better” doesn’t wash with a dog. They are animals, and they can react to pain in a way any animal can.

If you have a healthy relationship with your dog, they trust you implicitly. Having to nurse a painful wound, or go near their sore eye with a scary pointy tube can damage this trust. Why should they understand what you are doing is to help them? It can sow the seeds of a fearful reaction when you approach them in the future. Or at best that “trustometer” is left running at 75 instead of 100%. You need it to be 100 because of that Recall you will need when they are better. And because, well, why wouldn’t you want it?

Turbo Desensitisation

Trying to teach your dog to be okay with a grooming, or much harder, to accept their teeth being brushed, ideally requires a gentle desensitisation. This can be done over days, weeks or even months. Happy days. The problem we have with dog injuries is of course they occur without advance warning. So when you have carried them back from outside to the first aid kit, or just got back from the vets armed with Stuff, there is no time for easing them in. Treatment starts now. So we have to accelerate what is normally a gentler process and do our best under the circumstances.

Don’t try this at home

When you need to tend to your dog’s injury, it’s best to avoid doing any or all of these things:

  • Don’t rush it. If your body language is jerky and fast (“Let’s get this over with!”), this is not helpful. Try to relax.
  • Don’t reward your dog’s anxiety, such as praising them cheerfully with “There, there, good girl, it’s alright!” or randomly treating them to ‘cheer’ them up.
  • Don’t be forceful, such as manhandling them roughly to remain in position. By all means use a treat specifically to lure them into position if you have to. Nor verbally forceful either: “Don’t be such a wus!” No-one said this is easy, but try to keep your own frustrations in check.
  • Don’t let them go to a corner, or block them.
Building a more positive association

This is how we should train dogs anyway, so dealing with dog injuries shouldn’t be any different. Let’s build a positive association! It maybe you only need to tend to them a few times, but let’s get into the habit for next time!

  • If your dog is mobile, (and scarpers at the sight of the bandage) don’t be afraid to put on a lead and sit with them for a minute first, but no longer.
  • Try to be in a place that already has a nice association for them. Where practical, that includes your lap!
  • Have high value food to hand. Not training treats. What they really can’t resist – if medically okay to provide, of course. You know,  chicken, sausage etc.….we want to accelerate a stimulus response so when you have to bring out the tube etc., this means good food. So from the moment you produce the tube, feed them with this, before, during (if you can) and immediately after. Obviously easier with two people: one is messier but it can be done!
  • Keep your voice calm, soft and matter-of-fact. This is not praise. If it helps, just talk aloud to them what’s going on.
  • Apart from actual medications, show them your paraphernalia – let them briefly sniff, making sure they can munch on a tasty morsel.
  • Try to be efficient, not dallying, but remember don’t rush it.
  • Afterwards, lots of praise. They will be feeling relief. Work with this and make them feel even better. And another tasty morsel.
Think holistically

Apart from feeling pain or ill, remember your dog might be feeling a little down anyway: walkies may be shorter, on-lead when they are used to off, or may have stopped entirely. Food routines may have changed. All potentially upsetting anyway. Nothing better here than some extra affection.

So nursing dog injuries is rarely perfect or an elegant sight, but just being sensitive to how they perceive what is going on is a big step in the right direction. My dog still hates the bandage redressing, probably always will. But he now tolerates it rather than cowers. And after only three days he wags his tail when the first aid box comes out. Hamburger time! And the trust is still there.

Categories
ownership

Eastside Tails

Summer break!

and popular dog breeds
dog sitting on beach looking out to sea popular dog breeds blog

It’s a summer recess here at the Dog Citizen blog. I’ll just leave you with the answer to a question I get asked a lot. Here are the most popular dog breeds or types I have trained:

  • 1. Labrador
  • 2. Cockapoo
  • 3. Cocker Spaniel
  • 4. Border Collie
  • 5. English Bulldog

I have worked with most breeds and crosses, some pretty exotic! None of this is a reflection of a dog’s temperament or intelligence, but maybe an indication of the most popular breeds in our region!

Normal service resumes next month, catch you back here!

Categories
training

Eastside Tails

Dog Comms

Part 2: Dog-to-Dog Body Language: Ears

How do dogs interpret ear signals from each other?
alert dog looking across park dog body language ears blog

This is the second part in an occasional series looking at aspects of dog communication. We will be looking at signals between humans and dogs in both directions and also of course dog to dog. This month we are examining how dogs use their ear position to communicate.

Some dogs appear to get overly excited or aggressive at the sight of another dog. But not always. It can be perplexing. Sometimes owners tell me it’s difficult to fathom any pattern to this. And occasionally I agree! It can be a stronger than usual motivation to engage and play or equally a more aggressive reaction. Either way we are usually too focused on our own dog to notice the signals the other dog may be showing. Could there be some clues in dog-to-dog body language? Maybe their ears?

Often we can label things because we are so familiar with our dog’s perception: she doesn’t like black dogs, he doesn’t like bigger dogs and so on. But let’s take a moment to understand dog comms. Because often this can tell us what is making our dog excited or stressed, when it wasn’t so obvious before. A great starting point for this month is the ears.

Appearances alone

Appearances alone can be a powerful driver. Dogs of the same or similar breed can be very skilful at reading each other. Their anatomy is the same. They were born and raised by a mother who looked like them, as did their siblings. Their ears, tail, coat and mouth shape are the same. They use these to express their feelings and moods in the same way. Of course, dogs that are too similar in the same household can have competitive urges that can get out of control, particularly if they are of the same sex and similar age. But generally when seeing other similar dogs outside, they can at least read each other’s intentions well. Mishaps are less likely.

Through natural selection but particularly with managed breeding over many centuries, these days we now have a huge variety of dogs of all shapes and sizes. Different temperaments and skillsets too. But a powerful genetic constant from their canine ancestors is the way dogs use their bodies to communicate. This can’t be bred out and remains the same. Often we have bred a dog to look a certain way, and their appearance alone can sometimes lead to a breakdown in dog-to-dog communication.

Cocker Spaniel meets German Shepherd

A training instructor David Ryan talks about a real example to illustrate this, and here’s a short version. Two off-lead dogs in a park appear to each other 20 metres away, face-on. The spaniel is immediately alarmed at the shepherd’s appearance, especially those naturally pointy ears.

‘Why is this dog looking at me so alarmed and alert? This doesn’t look good. I’ll raise my ears too to show I am also on alert! Hopefully he won’t come any closer.’

The problem is the cocker’s long, floppy ears appear not to be raised, neither to her owner, nor to the shepherd. (They very subtly do lift, but her ears are so heavy and long it’s only barely perceptible close up.) To the shepherd, the spaniel’s ears are totally relaxed.

‘Hey’, thinks the shepherd, ‘you look pretty cool, think I’ll come over and say hello’.

‘Whoa’, thinks the spaniel, ‘those ears aren’t coming down and he’s coming over to me! This is really bad! Why is my human just standing there? I’ll need to take control and tell him to go away…’

Spaniel reacts aggressively, shepherd reciprocates out of surprise…

So here we have an incident based entirely on each dog innocently misreading the other’s intentions. Purely based on appearance, and a lack of fluency across breed recognition. A GSD’s ears always look pointy, a spaniel’s floppy. Of course their tails may have been telling a different story, but as they were face-on, this was by-passed. Both dogs had already made up their mind.  

But my dog’s ears are small/fixed

Of course different breeds have different anatomies and this can especially apply to the ears. And things like ear-cropping thankfully is illegal in the UK now and has been since the Animal Welfare Act in 2006. But because of selective breeding a lot of physical ‘manipulated’ ear traits continue to exist. Whatever, your dog’s breed or cross-type, you may find it difficult to read your dog’s ears if they are proportionally small or seem fixed in position. Your dog too will find it difficult to use them as an effective method of communication because of this, even though they will still be using those muscles to move them. But there will be subtle differences and changes you can notice if you observe your dog. Give it a go!

So what can ears tell us?

Here is general guide for what ear signals might tell us about our dog’s emotional state:

Erect ears

Alert, aggression, confidence, alarm, or intense listening

Raised ears

Curious, listening, confidence, intent, or playful

Lowered ears

Relaxed, tired, or playful

Low ears, flat against the head and/or ‘behind’ the head

Anxious, fearful, aggression (fear), or stressed

There can be subtle variations on this. And what your dog is doing with other parts of their body will complete the picture. But an important aspect of dog-to-dog body language is how they use their ears. The more you notice this, the better your understanding of dog comms. …Why they sometimes do the things they do…!

Categories
training

Eastside Tails

Three Basics of Training

The Foundation we can teach as a basis for change
german shepherd dog looking up three basics of training blog
“Where do I start with training my dog?”

Well, I can give you three basics of training. And this is a short post this month, because it’s actually quite a simple message.

I learned some useful ideas from an ex-police dog trainer called David Ryan. That sentence might surprise you, because you might think the words ‘police dog’ and ‘force-free’ don’t mix. Often they don’t! But the best dog trainers – who don’t believe in aversive methods – come in many varieties. He maintained that to change a behaviour, we need to have three things in our toolkit first.

If you can master these three basics of training, you have an amazing foundation. By master, I mean your dog being able to do them with distractions present. And from this foundation, many other things flow. So let’s get right to it.

1. Your dog needs to pay attention to you when asked.

It’s a simple thing isn’t it. You might use your dog’s name, or a specific cue like “Look”. Everyone says “Of course my dog knows their name!” But I wouldn’t take this for granted. Maybe they do ‘know’ it. But are they able to look up at you when you say it, no matter what else is going on? Can you get their attention when there is another dog in front of them? Or if they are aroused and animated with another sight or smell? To lead your dog away from danger, from something that is stressing them, or from disturbing someone else, we first need their attention. 100% focus.

2. Your dog needs to be able to Sit when asked.

Why do so many puppy classes start with the Sit? There’s actually solid reasoning behind this. Yes, it’s one of the easier things to learn. But when your dog performs a Sit, they are focussing on you. It’s a calmer poise rather than standing and jumping. It’s easier to learn other things by staying in place if their bum is on the ground. And above all, it’s the simplest, most powerful interrupter of another behaviour. Because they are now focussing on you, and in a calmer poise.

3. Your dog needs to be able to relax on a bed when asked.

A den, bed, or special place – call it what you like – is second only to food and water when we consider welfare. Welfare: safety and well-being. It is so important that a dog can truly rest, knowing they won’t be disturbed, distracted or stressed. And because we are there for guidance, it is important for us to be able to guide them there by asking. Either for safety (away from an open front door), or to help them settle if they are over-aroused (stressed).

Motivations

And there you have it, the three basics of training. And then we can introduce the magic. Because if we train in the right, positive way, our dog will find each one rewarding. If something is rewarding, they will be motivated to volunteer it. And not just when asked. So we can embellish the three basics of training:

To focus on you when they want something or are unsure about something.

To choose to maintain their equilibrium (calm) in their own way.

To seek out their bed or space on their own to rest.

But for now, let’s master the three basics of training.